Yezmi Malek
Traditional Food For Iran – “You can go to school in America,” my mother used to tell my siblings and me when we were young in San Diego in the 1980s, “but when you come home you are in Iran.” And so we spoke Persian and attended Persian school on Saturday and learned to write the language. We listened to classical Persian setar music. And celebrated Nowruz Persian New Year.
But of course, the strongest form of cultural immersion we have ever encountered is cooking. My mother, who left Iran in 1976, introduced us to the smell, taste and tradition of Persian cuisine. He spends many hours a week traveling not only to San Diego but also to Orange County and Los Angeles, 100 miles away, in search of a taste that reminds him of Iran. He taught us that no matter what the information, home is home and nothing brings you there like taste.
Traditional Food For Iran
In Irvine, he found a bakery that made fresh ashes named for the pebbles at the bottom of the oven where the flour was baked. . On weekend mornings, he would line us all up there so that each of us could order a maximum of three people per person – enough to drive an hour and a half for 12 loaves of bread.
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He always buys all kinds of plain yogurt available in the store and tries it out for the most acidic yogurt. He always put us in our blue train and drove through the city to the international grocery store where he could choose from seven fetas and buy fresh herbs for a pound, not by the pile.
Every day, my mother would turn over five pounds of rice – always basmati – and divide the dish for one person into a large pot, wash it, and soak it for several hours before boiling it short. He then begins the magic that requires the preparation of tahdig, a dry rice, a measure of the value of every Persian chef.
Sometimes he puts lavash in a bread pan. On other occasions, when not being able to travel specifically for bread, he used tortilla flour, which had the same good results. Either way, it serves both rice and intimidation, encouraging us children to procrastinate and resist swallowing that beautiful shell. I never could.
Persian cuisine is primarily about the balance of taste and flavor, texture and temperature. In every dish, even on each plate, you will find the sweet and sour taste, soft and crunchy, cooked and raw, hot and cold. In the winter we ate khoresh-e fesenjon, a sweet pomegranate and walnut to keep us warm. In the summer we will peel eggs for khoresh-e bademjoon, a light tomato and fried duck egg with lemon juice and grapes or unripe grapes.
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No Persian dish is complete without a lot of herbs. Each table is served with carrot sticks, baskets of fresh radish and onions, eaten raw and often by hand, often with slices of feta, cucumber or walnut. I have never been accustomed to practicing and prefer the beautiful and varied ways that herbs can be incorporated into baked goods. Cuku Carrot, a type of frittata rich in deep-fried herbs that lists ingredients like a real joke.
All over Iran, but especially in the north, where my family comes from medicine, it is considered a vegetable or an important ingredient, not a side dish. In the Gulf where I now live, I can always see Iranian grocery carts from afar, high-end carts with piles of parsley, cilantro, dill and mint.
Although I am an Iranian chef and I am not an Iranian chef. I was more of an Iranian eater, so when The Times asked me to choose a dish that included Persian cuisine – the main recipe – I talked to my mother, interviewing about two Iranian and Iranian-American chefs. Ten and came up with the ingredients I compared the list. And techniques of almost all Persian cookbooks published in English over the last 30 years.
As an Iranian-American – respecting representation and incorporating two cultures that often conflict with each other – has always been a strict walk. This project felt more important and personal to me than any other collection of recipes I have ever made.
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Above all, I tried to share the taste of my childhood, the taste of Iranian cuisine in America. However, I was often forced to give up when I decided to give up many of my favorite dishes, such as bagli polo (fava bean rice), tahchin (delicious sour milk rice made from meat). Chicken or lamb) and khoresh. It is e beh (quince and lamb).
A few words about vocabulary: For personal, political and historical reasons, many Iranians in the West call themselves Persians. “Persia” is a nation and a language called Persia, while “Iran” is a nation. Not all Persians and Persians are Iranians and neither are Persians. If you are confused by this difference, make sure you are not alone – I have spent most of my life confused about it, and for our purposes here consider many synonyms. Or less. A ring.
The task of refining a whole 2,000 years of food into some recipes is useless, so consider this list as an invitation to cooking, not a statement of fact. This is an invitation to my childhood home and Iran that my mother built for her children with rice, bread, cheese and greens.
In Iranian families, dinner is incomplete without surveys or meals. No cooking pot is full without a polo shirt, which means “bottom of the pot.” Tahdig is the dominant dish of Persian cuisine and can be served with rice, potatoes, salad or bread as it is here. Every night while preparing dinner for me and my siblings, my mother described my grandfather’s incredible endurance, that is, he always soaked my mother in water or boiled her gently. . Enough to cover but not wet. I can not wait and always eat immediately. (See this recipe at NYT Cooking.)
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Kuku, similar to Persian frittata, comes in many forms, but this one stuffed with herbs is my favorite. I especially like the hookah carrots for the dark, sweet skin and fresh flavor, bright green interior that is studd with cloves as well. Every bite is incredibly delicious and complex. Kuku is traditionally served with flatbread and a selection of aromatic and sour spices to balance the sweetness of the herbs. . My favorites are fresh radishes, eggplant pickles, and soft, salty feta flakes. (See this recipe at NYT Cooking.)
It is often called the national dish of Iran and consists of three main ingredients of this khoresh or stew. The first leaves are dried or fresh. The sweet taste of herbs determines the taste of a soup, it is not the same without it. Similarly, Omani lime (also known as dry Persian lime) adds aged acidity to essential dishes. Finally, the traditional Persian technique of frying herbs that are sliced ​​until dark and becomes dry, adding character and complexity to the stew base. (See this recipe at NYT Cooking.)
Almonds, sometimes called almonds, are a summer dish in Iran and have been my favorite food since childhood. Fresh lemon juice and gourd or unripe grapes brighten the boil and give it a sharp taste. These sharp flavors harmonize well with the soft and pleasant texture of the avocado and tomato that turns Smooth when it ripens. This dish is especially delicious with dried prawns. (See this recipe at NYT Cooking.)
Fesenjon or fesenjon originates from the green mountains and coasts of northern Iran, where pomegranates and walnuts grow. The sweet and sour taste of pomegranate juice and orange juice along with the silky texture that Walnut gives to the soup makes it one of the most refined dishes of Persian cuisine. I hated fesenjon when I was young, but as a teenager it became my favorite food. I kept begging my mother to do it. (See this recipe at NYT Cooking.)
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For me, reshteh ash means the arrival of spring. This soup is usually served before Nowruz, the Persian New Year, which falls on March 20th. Its flavor is determined by two Persian ingredients: Reshteh or noodles, which are more floury and salty than their Italian counterparts. Cooking the flour they release makes the soup thicker. Kashk, a form of dry yogurt or yogurt, is more salty and acidic than Greek or sour milk.
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